Phil Edwards
is a senior producer for the Vox video team.
These days, most foods don't go out of their way to advertise their high gluten content. But in many old ads, it was a selling point.
This ad from 1905 for Pillsbury flour is typical — beneath a bizarre reference to Chinese customs, you'll find the boast that "the gluten and phosphates of the best wheat are retained by the Pillsbury Process."
An ad by Corby's Mother's Breadin 1913 bragged that the company's bread had more gluten than the competition. Others, like one from 1920, trumpeted gluten for being "tough and coherent."
What does the early gluten fever mean? Who knows. Today, you'd never get away with ads like these because of the gluten-free craze (which has its own problems).
This obviously wasn't the case in 1919. "Gluten?" an ad from Merit Bread asks. "That's the something which helps to make you thrive."
"Gluten? That's the something which helps to make you thrive."